Wednesday, August 15, 2007

The Land of 1000 Kasbahs

Morocco is absolutely amazing! From the crazy square and souks of Marrakesh, the magical retreats of the Riads, the spectacular Atlas Mountains, the Berber towns dotted all over the land, the nomads roaming the desert, the everlasting dunes of the Sahara, the green Oasis’s flowing through the valleys, the ceder forests, the 1000’s of Kasbahs and the mind boggling Medina in Fez. Wow!
This was a trip that will always be remembered. Locals with always a smile on their face, little kids running over just to say hello, the tastiest tajines and couscous… everything!!!
We were totally blown away.
We started off our trip with 2 days in Marrakesh wandering the souks, doing a few tourist sights and just taking everything in. The square at dusk is one of the most amazing sights we have every seen, out come all the food stalls cooking the yummiest fresh food with wafts of Bbq smoke blowing over the square, snake charmers blowing away, story tellers pulling in the crowds, street boxing, woman doing henna, people trying to throw monkeys and snakes around you for a few dirham’s and hundreds of people just wandering around taking it all in.
I had organised a private guide, driver and 4 x 4 to pick us up, including my sister Camilla and husband Ed, in Marrakesh and take us out into the Atlas Mountains and desert for 4 days. What a magical experience.
Our guide Ali was full of knowledge; he speaks Arabic, Berber, French, English, Spanish and a little Japanese. Unbelievable!! Our driver Yousef was a Berber and was such a character and a highlight of the trip in himself!! We called him crazy couscous. We all had funny names, Aisha tajine (Sally), Sa’id (Lachie), Fatima (Camilla –all first born woman are called Fatima), Mohammad (Ed –all first born men are called Mohammad), Yousef Couscous, Ali Baba and the 40 thievesJemma el Fna square just starting to get going in the afternoonAt night this place is truly a sight to see!Yummy Tajine. The food was sooo good the whole trip.The Oasis in the middle of craziness. Our Riad in Marrakesh. A Riad is a traditional house with a central courtyard. Pure heaven...We took a horse and cart for a few hours which was really fun stopping off at some points of interest.L & S. This was at the gardens of Majorelle in Marrakesh.The first day of the trip we wound our way up the Atlas mountains and headed west towards Ouarzazat where we visited the exotic Kasbah of Ait Ben Hadou, the rose valley and spent the night at Kelat Magouna.There is only one road over the Atlas Mountains. This was built by the French Legion.The gang, Youseff is in the middle and Ali on the rightThe Kasbah of Ait Ben Hadou. A Kasbah is a fortified building where the locals would live to be protected. They were also used as forts to protect the camel trains back in the day.A cute shy little Berber girl Spectacular scenery, there is a little Kasbah in the middle The local bus. They were all off to a wedding in the next town, they were very amused that we were taking pictures of them and they started taking pictures of us!
The next day we headed to the spectacular Dades Gorges were a spring feeds the whole valley, we saw an amazing oasis called Boulman Dades and then off to Erg Chebbi and the Sahara desert to spend the night under the stars with the Berbers. It was so amazing, we took a 2 hour camel trek into the dunes and we were caught in a small sand storm on the way, indescribable and unforgettable!!Dades Gorges. A spring flows out under a large rock and supplies the whole valley. It was quite the local hangout for a Sunday afternoon.Cool looking rocks that looked like monkey fingers.Waving goodbye and about to head into the Sahara on our camel trekAbsolutely amazing, words cannot describe. The smallish sand storm that whipped up during our trek, it wasn't really dark its just the way the picture came out. We could see lightning out over the dunes to. What an experience! We didn’t get much sleep that night and early in the morning we climbed the highest dune around and watched the sun rise over the glowing dunes. Spectacular!That's our camp site.
We then took the camels back to meet our car and off we went again to visit the Black Gnawa village which is known by their Spiritual Music. This is a small town on the edge of the Sahara, they're dark Africans and their village has survived since the slave trade days. After that we drove to Midelt via Erfoud, Ziz Valley, and Errachidia and spent the night there. Having so much fun!!!!Just amazing, this is the second longest palm tree valley spanning over 150kms.On our last day of the tour we visited a rare cedar forest where there were lots of monkeys, this is the area where you can ski in Morocco, we then drove through the middle Atlas then down to the plains where we arrived at Fez. Nomads staking their territory, they are all over Morocco. Not much has changed in a few thousand yearsThis beautiful girl and her brothers came running up to the car from their Nomad tent just to say hi and see what was going on. Some of them have amazing blue eyes. We were so sad to say goodbye to Ali and Yousef at the end of our 4 day tour. We had such a unforgettable time.
The last two days of the trip was spent in Fez. A massive Medina with over 5000 streets to loose yourself in. Which we managed to do quite a bit of!! We took a private guide for a day as it was much easier to just follow him and know exactly where you were going. It was impossible to know whether to turn left, right, or go down a little alley and then arrive at the smelly tanneries. The view looking over the Fez Medina, the smoke in the back ground is from the pottery kilns
Ed and I taking it all inThe tanneries were really a sight, same for everything else. You can see the chalk and the dye and the workers doing their thing.
The one thing that’s amazing with these counties is that everything is made by handThe Riad was out of this world. It was like a palace. The attention to detail in the tile work and wood roof carvings was unreal. Both the Riads we stayed in were owned by French ladies.Having our afternoon nap on the terrace of the Riad. Pure bliss.On the last night in Fez we had a slipper party on the terrace of the Riad. These are all our new slippers that we had bought during the trip. Crazy couscous!!!!!!!!!!

A truly amazing experience that we will never forget

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

LOVE BOX

over the weekend we went to a festival called...yup, you guessed it. Lovebox. we can happily report that it was the best festival we've been to! it was like a mini Glastonbury, without the mud, 200,000 people and 300,000 tents. it turned out to be the most beautiful day, lots of grass to lie on, only good music, and a small crowd. so small that we kept running into our friends so no money wasted on texting everyone all the time. perfect! ollie, lachie, lachies old boss from compaq (way back in Sydney! totally random run in) and sally
groove armada, going off AGAIN. this is the second time this summer we've seen them. they are the absolute BEST live!
the presets. an australian duo that also went off!
sally with ali's brother greg

on my favorite ride ever! the swings!

ollie and i down the front with lachie and an old school mate of theirs, michael johnston

happy couple

with mel, ollie and a few of their mates

Friday, July 20, 2007

Tea with the Queen

After months and months of waiting the day finally came round and we headed off to Buckingham Palace to the Royal tea party all dressed up and excited.
With great excitement we saw the Queen, Phillip, Charles, Camilla, Sophie, Edward and a whole lot of other royals that I wouldn’t recognise.
We drank tea, ate yummy cakes with the Royal insignia on it, played in the gardens and followed the royals around.
Sal, Ali and I personally met Prince Edward and chatted for about 5 mins. I told him we moved to England for the weather! He asked if we all lived in Earls Court with all the other Aussies. And a few laughs thrown in to, he was very nice.
On the way out we actually walked through the palace, the courtyard and out the main gates which was fun, we felt very special.
We couldn’t take a camera so no pictures unfortunately.
By the way the Queen said to say Hi!

Monday, July 16, 2007

Bull Run 2007

Sometimes everything goes your way and this weekend certainly one of them. What a weekend! We arrived into small town Biarritz and there waiting for us is our brand new Mini hire car ready to get thrashed. We quickly crossed the border into Basque Country and the beautiful Pyrenees Mountains where the mini lapped up every winding corner. I had never thought of Spain as lush green forests and crystal clear streams besides peaking mountains. This is northern Spain..wow. We set up camp 10mins out of town; it was full of crazy Aussies, NZ'ers and Spaniards. We partied on well into the night and woke up with the alarm at 6am! We had to meet Mealz and Shareen who had just caught the over night bus from Barcelona. And as luck goes all the girls managed to get up onto a balcony over looking the run and have the best view in town! The town was absolute madness!!! It was so mad that once the run was over each day we couldn’t wait to get out of there, we had never seen anything like it. People asleep where they fell, rubbish piled a few feet high, drunken people with Sangria and flour all over them x 30,000. It was horrid. After the run on Saturday we slowly made our way to San Sebastian, did a little sight seeing, ate lots of Tapas and chilled on the beach. We really loved it there.Sunday 6am, all over again. This time Sal stayed in bed and Dan and I headed off to the run. We were a lot more prepared this run, so much adrenalin, so many Spaniards and so much fun!
What a weekend!!!!A beautiful Spanish sunset in the campsite 7km out of PamplonaVodka and nibbles in the tent with Sal and DanSal, Mealz and Shareen managed to sweet talk an old lady into letting them go up to her balcony for the ultimate view and managed to snap us, what are the chances of that!A sea of red and white, we were the odd ones out
And their off.. the bulls come in 4 groups of 4 let off at small intervals making their way into the bull ring, a rocket is let off to signal the start of each run
Such an adrenalin rush!

Dan and I pumped after we survived our first bull ran and made it into the ring. Little did we know the ring is where all the damage is done when the bulls are let loose!!The run is over by 9am so that left us all day to head to San Sebastian and see the sights and have a quick dip. We loved it there, especially all the tapas bars! And Spain is soooo cheap!A really cool looking church built into the hill.Dan after a big night remembered where he had left his headIt was so good to see Mealz even if it was just for one daySan Sebastian and the main beach. Its split by two beaches on either side of the town.

The second bull run!! We were a lot more prepared and pumped for this run. Running side by side with them. Masses of people at 7am on Sunday morning ready to take the bulls head on

Close call!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!This time we decided to get a better view and be out of the action in the ring, notice the guy getting horned!!Our awesome little mini handled the weekend with easeSunday afternoon was beach time in Biarritz while waiting for our plane home, it had been a long time since I had done a bit of body surfing with a decent swell